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Artikkel om Ágathe

Her følgjer ein artikkel eg har skrive om situasjonen i San Juan Comalapa, heile eller deler av artikkelen er til fri ikkje-kommersiell bruk.

Stord og San Juan Comalapa i Guatemala har vore vennskapskommunar sidan 1989, i 2002 starta den første utvekslinga gjennom Fredskorpset, og nå er den femte runden med utveksling av arbeidskraft godt i gang. I Comalapa er musikarparet Franz Roberg (32) og Ingrid Kristina Leiråmo (27) i gang med musikkundervisning; og eg, Øystein Stakland (26), arbeidar på miljøavdelinga i kommunen. På Stord er Charles Jafet Agripino Perén Cutzal (24) og Azucena Lopez Chipix (28) for å arbeida med henholdsvis musikk og idrett. I begge kommunane er også fokuset på førebyggjande arbeid blant ungdom viktig.

San Juan Comalapa er ein kommune i Chimaltenango fylke, kommunen ligg ca. 2200moh og består av eit bysentrum med omtrent 20 000 innbyggjarar og fleire rundtliggande bygder, slik at det til saman er omtrent 40 000 innbyggjarar i kommunen.
Sjølve Comalapa by blei ikkje så hardt ramma av tropestormen Ágathe, men det gjekk mange ras utanfor byen som gjorde at vegane frå Comalapa by til bygdene blei stengte, det tok derfor litt tid før ein fekk full oversikt over skadane. I bygdene er folk ofte fattigare og lever meir utsett enn i byane, dei er svært avhengige av det dei klarar å dyrke fram på eiga jord, til mat til seg sjølve og kanskje litt til sal. I bygdene var det mange som mista hus og heim, eller måtte evakuera på grunn av rasfare, og mange fekk også store skader på jorda sine.
I løpet av den første helga blei 331 personar evakuerte, dei blei i starten plasserte i skulebygningar og kyrkjer, men etterkvart flytta dei fleste evakuerte inn hos slektningar.

Saman med kona til ordføraren har eg reist rundt til forskjellige bygder for å sjå på skadene og dela ut mat til dei hardast ramma.
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Ein dag drog me ut til bygda Paya der det hadde gått fleire ras, fleire bruer var øydelagde pga. elver som flomma over, men det var mogleg å ta seg fram med firehjulstrekk og midlertidige bruer laga av trestokkar.

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I Paya traff eg blant anna ei gammal dame som hadde blitt ramma av eit jordskred. Huset hennar var nettopp blitt ferdigstilt og ho var veldig fortvila over skadene, heldigvis overnatta ho hos ei datter den natta den eine veggen i huset ramla inn.

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Dagen etter var eg med tilbake til Paya for å vera med på starten av gjenoppbygginga av den eine brua. Folk frå heile kommunen var engasjerte i å hjelpa til, og kommunen hadde frakta mange billaster med folk frå Comalapa by.

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I Paya ligg ei av hovedvasskjeldene til Comalapa by, store deler av røyra som fraktar dette vatnet inn til Comalapa blei skadd av jordras, og det er nå mangel på vatn fleire stader i byen. Prognosane seier at det vil ta 3-6mnd å få orden på vassleveransen til byen, avhengig av kor mykje av røyra som må byttast ut, kor mykje av røyra som må gravast opp, kor mykje støtte kommunen får, og sjølvsagt vær og vind.

Vasssituasjonen er vanskeleg fleire plasser, ikkje berre er det lite vatn, men det vatnet som finnest er svært forureina. Jordrasa som har råka vassleveransen har gjort at det nå går meir kloakk ut i vatnet, samt at jordrasa har tatt med seg både plantemateriale og husdyr, forråtnelsesprosessen medfører vond lukt og skumle bakterier. Eg sjølv fekk kjenne dette på kroppen med ein kraftig Salmonellainfeksjon som sendte meg på sjukehus i seks dagar. Tilfella av magesjau relatert til bakterier eller parasittar har gått kraftig opp i heile landet, der det igjen er dei svakaste som blir hardast ramma sidan dei gjerne ikkje har råd til lege og medisiner. Seks dagar på sjukehus kosta meg over 10 000 norske kroner, eg har forsikring, det har ikkje den vanlege guatemalar.

Det er litt rart å vera her nå, det er ikkje berre snakk om ein situasjon langt borte: eg sit midt oppe i det heile. Heller er det ikkje berre snakk om framande personar, også nokre av mine venner har blitt råka hardt av dette. I løpet av dei siste vekene har eg fått høyra fleire sterke forteljingar om korleis folk så vidt kom seg ut av huset før raset kom. Den sterkaste forteljinga var frå Comalapa by, der eitt hus blei fullstendig jamna med jorda, mora i huset fortalte detaljert om den skrekkelige opplevinga, ho hadde vore heime i huset saman med ungane då raset gjekk. Mannen hadde vore i kyrkja, og då han kom tilbake var huset borte, kona var delvis begravd av jordmassene, og minstejenta var forsvunne. Han fekk grave fram kona, og saman klarte dei å lokalisere kvar minstejenta var, og grave henne fram. Jenta hadde havna i eit lite hulrom under nokre betongblokker, og på grunn av dette overlevde ho. Mora og minstejenta blei innlagt på sjukehus ei natt, før dei flytta inn hos slektningar.
Huset ligg i utkanten av byen, eit stykke frå næraste nabo, naboane hadde derfor ikkje fått med seg kva som hadde skjedd, men då dei først blei oppmerksame på raset kom dei til for å hjelpa. Eg var på besøk ei veke etter raset, då var dei komme langt med gjenoppbygginga av huset, med god hjelp frå naboar og kommunen.

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Det er mykje å ta tak i, bruer som må byggjast, vassrøyr som må leggjast, hus som må gjenreisast, åkrar som må såast på ny, og husdyr som må kjøpast. Me ønskjer å hjelpa våre venner i nød, og på Stord har vennskapskomitéen sett i gang ein innsamlingsaksjon. Sidan me nå er tri nordmenn her nede, samt at me har eit godt nettverk av lokale hjelparar, vil me klara å utnytta pengene som kjem på ein best mogleg måte.

For dei som måtte ønskje meir informasjon kan ein finna det på heimesida til Vennskap Stord Comalapa, og på Facebook, for dei som ønskjer å gi eit bidrag kan dei gjera det til:
Venskap Stord-Comalapa
mrk. Hjelp Comalapa
Konto: 5266 05 16492

Det er også mogleg å senda bidrag via PayPal til meg, hugs å merke med “Hjelp Comalapa”.

Posted in guatemala.


Operation build-bridge

The start of the building of a bridge near the village Paya.

Posted in guatemala.


Vulkanutbrudd og tropestromen Ágathe

Eg synes det er utrulig fascinerande å tenkja på naturkreftene i vulkanutbrudd og tropestormar.
Eg synes det er fascinerande å høyre om korleis naturkreftene herjer, vulkansand dett ned 100km frå vulkanen, eit 80m(!) djupt hol opnar seg midt i gata, og veier og bruer forsvinn.
Eg synes det var ein interessant oppleving å vera i hovudstaden, der ein ikkje har hatt så mykje regn sidan 1949, i tillegg til at dreneringsrøyr og kloakksystem var fulle av lavasand og dermed berre fungerte med ~40% kapasitet.
Ikkje minst synes eg det var ein interessant oppleving å spa vulkansand i hovudstaden.

Eg synes ikkje det er kjekt å tenkja på alle som har mista hus, heim, familie og venner, eller livet. Og eg synes ikkje det er kjekt å tenkja på korleis årets avling blir..

Fekk tatt nokre få bilete, men sidan været var så dårleg måtte me stort sett holda oss innendørs.

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Små jordras langs heile vegen, her frå stykket mellom Zaragosa og Comalapa: 30052010946 30052010952

Resten av bileta på flickr.

Oppdatering: Fleire bilete av stormens øydeleggingar her og her.

Posted in guatemala.


Pictures and excuses

So, the reason for my not-so-frequently posts on this blog-thingy isn’t because nothing is happening and I don’t have stuff to tell.

On the contrary.

Really.

I’ve uploaded some pictures from my sisters wedding for friends&family to enjoy @ Flickr (yes, in the collection named “Family“).

Panorama

Also there will, sometime, be uploaded more pictures from Guatemala (yes, in the collection named “Guatemala“).

There might also be written something here about the awesome trip that my sister, brother-in-law and myself went on. Probably not, but important keywords are:
Rent a car, drive, get lost in Guatemala City, find yourself in Guatemala City, drive to Rio Dulce, Livingston, Flores, Tikal, walk to the jungle, climb pyramids, drive to Belize, Hopkins, Dangriga, return to Guatemala, Flores, Quirigua, get lost in Guatemala City, find yourself in Guatemala City, go to Antigua, enjoy the amazing Easter-celebration in Antigua, climb a volcano,  go to Panajachel, visit Maximón in Santiago de Atitlan, return to Comalapa.

That’s all folks, take care :)

Posted in guatemala.


Belize – Las Sirenas

So.. after a month back on land it’s finally time to update my blog with the trip to Belize.

Day 1 (27.12): Arrived at Rio Dulce at about 11ish, after about 5 hours on a bus from Guate, boarding time was 1:30 so we had some time to wander around looking at the city. The weather was nice, sunny and hot, but not too hot, humid, but not to humid. At about 1:30 we boarded the boat, the crew wanted my passport, $55 for taxes and entrances fees and what-not, and of course, my sandals..2009_12_28-17_34_23

2009_12_27-17_56_49My cabin was about the size of a small coffin, with a hatch in the head-area.With my camera bag at my feet I could almost fit.

The first day we went to some small place/hotel-thingy in the river
and stayed there to the next day.

Day 2(28.12): We started moving at about 6ish. And reached Livingston around 7ish. The weather was nice and sunny for a short visit to Livingston, a small and pretty town.

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Later we left for the Belize Cays, a 7 hour trip. After a few hours the sea started to get quite rough, and everyone were soaking wet. Due to a somewhat big design-flaw in my hatch my coffin got pretty wet as well.. Around 17ish we arrived at Frank’s Cay. And then the rain started..

Oh, and we saw dolphins! For a short period, but still, we saw dolphins!

Day 3(29:12): We stayed at Frank’s Cay the entire day. Rain, rain and rain. Also a lot of wind. And some more rain. The sea was nice and clear, swam around a little looking at corals and pretty fishes. Also went to the island to check out the buildings there. In 2006 a hurricane destroyed a lot of the island, at the moment there’s only two guys living there. They walk around cleaning up the beach and looking after the island.

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Day 4(30:12): We left for Tom Owen’s Cay. Rainy at first, but then it cleared and got quite good. Did some snorkeling and visited the island, where I got a tour by a friendly guy called Ato, on the island there’s some sort of hotel, quite simple (in a good way) and quite nice, but.. well it’s not exactly very eco-friendly. Also we had quite a spectacular sunset!

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Day 5 (31:12): We left for the 2nd biggest in reef the world and we anchored right in the middle. The weather was really good, sunny and just a little wind. Did a lot of snorkeling and saw some really cool stuff, and by cool stuff I mean fish, cuttlefish and corrals etc.
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Th2009_12_31-14_20_53is was actually new-years eve, and the dinner 2009_12_31-18_54_00
was spectacular. Lobster with mashed potatoes
and salad, really good, actually quite a lot better
than nice. (The two vegetarians on board got mashed potatoes and carrots for dinner).

Staying awake until midnight was not a very intelligent option, being an intelligent boy I went to bed and set my alarm at 23:45. Franz, Ingrid and myself got up to welcome the new year, and thankfully, for some reason, it didn’t rain at this point. It was actually really nice, staying in the middle of the ocean, with good friends, a Gallo, watching the fireworks from one of the islands in the horizon. Definitively one of the better ways to spend the last minutes of 2009 and the first ones of 2010.

Day 6 (1.12): We left for Rio Dulce about 5 in the morning. Reached Livingston about 11ish, and waited a little while for the migration officers to get on the boat so that we could actually be allowed to get back on land in Guatemala. Then we left for Rio Dulce, arrived around 6ish.

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During the trip on the river I got stung by some kind of yellowish fly-thingy, which made my left hand swell to the size of a boxing glove in 20 minutes.

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Day 7 (2.12): Ate breakfast on the boat and got back on land about 9ish. Got a cab to Guatemala city and managed to get the guy to drive us all the way to San Juan Comalapa (poor guy, that’s a 7 hour drive one-way). Arrived in Comalapa 4ish, tired and feeling kind of landsick.

Summary: The first few days were really wet, and we had rain every single night (which would’ve been okay if my coffin actually had some working ventilation except for opening the hatch and getting all the rain straight in my face). However, we also had lots of sun and I just barely got sunburned, thanks to using quite a generous amount of TiO2. The trip was a great success, really relaxing, and snorkeling over the coral reefs was a really fantastic experience. Also the food was awesome, with lots of fish and seafood. All in all, well worth it :)

And as always, there’s more (too many) pictures on flickr!

Posted in guatemala.


Back in San Juan Comalapa

Today a multilingual blogpost!

English:
So, I’m back in San Juan Comalapa, for good this time. From now on, no more spanishschool, just work! Expect it to be a lot easier.. :)
The last 9 weeks I’ve been studying spanish in Fundación Proyecto Lingüístico Francisco Marroquín (PLFM) in Antigua. It’s been some pretty good weeks, a lot of work and a lot of information in a short period of time, but it has paid of. When I started school I basically didn’t speak any spanish at all. Now I know how to speak spanish, but I still speak more simple spanish than I know I can. Basically I need more practice and need to expand my vocabulary a little (lot), but I got time, little by little.
The 9 weeks in Antigua were awesome, stayed with a really friendly family and met some really good people.

Español:
Al final, regresé definiativamente a San Juan Comalapa. No más cursos de español, solamente trabajo! Espero que sea más facil.. :)
Hace 9 semanas yo comencé mis estudies en Fundación Proyecto Lingüístico Francisco Marroquín (PLFM) en Antigua. Los semanas fueron muy alegres, pero tambien muy fatigosos. Yo he aprendido mucho español en poco tiempo, cuando yo comencé mis estudies yo prácticamente no habla nada español, ahora yo sé mucho y entiendo mucho de los diferentes tiempos etc. Pero es mucho gramatica y a vezes yo estoy muy confundido, entonces yo todavía hablo español peor/mas simple que yo puedo. Necesito más practica y más vocabolario, pero tengo tiempo, y poco a poco yo espero hablar mejor :)
Los semanas pasaron volando. Yo viví con una familia muy amable y agradable, y encontré muchas personas que son buena gente.

Kaqchiquel:
Xsakär!
Hm, todavía no puede escribir o hablar mucho de kaqchiquel. A mi me gustaría aprender un poco, pero ahora necesito enfocar en hablar más español :)

Norsk:
Så, eg har endelig returnert til San Juan Comalapa. Frå nå av blir det ikkje meir spanskskule, berre jobbing! Forventar at det blir enklare.. :)
Dei siste 9 vekene har eg studert spansk i Fundación Proyecto Lingüístico Francisco Marroquín (PLFM) i Antigua. Det har vore nokre veldig bra og lærerike veker, men samtidig veldig slitsomme. Har lært mykje spansk på kort tid. Når eg kom til Guatemala snakka eg praktiskt talt ikkje spansk, nå forstår eg mykje av den spanske gramatikken og kan i utgangspunktet bruka den, men eg snakkar fortsatt dårlegare spansk enn det eg eigentlig kan. Reknar med at det blir betre med litt meir praksis og eit større ordforråd.
I Antigua budde eg hos ein veldig flott familie, og traff fleire skikkelig bra personar.

Bokmål:
Neida, jeg kommer selvsagt ikke til å skrive bokmål i bloggen min :)

Posted in guatemala.


Acatenango

Volcan de Acatenango. Wow. 3976m. 21.11.2009. This was an experience I’m not going to forget for sure!

From the top of Acatenango it’s about 300m to Fuego (3763m, impossible to climb because it erupts like every 10-20 minutes.)

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The climb was easier than I expected, I’ve never been at this altitude before, but it felt pretty good. After an hour on the top I still had a resting-pulse of ~114, so I guess the altitude affected me somewhat (yes, science stuff: heartbeats, red bloodcells, oxygentransport, levels of oxygen in the air, etc. Awesome!). Thanks mum&dad for dragging me up mountains before I could walk 😉

The view, oh my god! For every meter we climbed the view got better and better. At the north we had a spectacular view of volcan de Atitlan, and the Santiaguito (?) (another of the 3 active volcanoes in Guatemala) and we could see all the way to the border of México.

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Turning south we had volcan de Agua and Pacaya (Pacaya is also active, that’s where all the tourists go to see, but not touch, the lava), and we could actually see all the way to the border of El Salvador.

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Turning west it was cloudy and unfortunaely we couldn’t see the ocean. Turning east it was cloudy at first, but it cleared and we could see Antigua, Guatemala city and beyond.

Acatenango isn’t defined as active, it has 4 inactive craters but it also has some2009_11_21-12_20_49 hot-spots where steam is constantly pouring out.

Getting a guide to Acatenango wasn’t as easy as to Pacaya, almost all of the agencies only offers tours to Pacaya, because there’s more robbers and bad-guys at Acatenango and Agua. However, with the help of the tourist information we found a guy on a motorcycle (..) that accepted to take us up. Some reccommended to bring security, because a few months ago another group of tourists got robbed and their guards got shot. But both the guide and ourselves thought it’s better to just get robbed. For minimizing the risk of meeting any bad-guys we left Antigua at 4:00 in the morning, took the shortest route up and the longest route down. All we met was some happy locals on the top, and we got safe and sound home. Also, by starting the climb so early we got a really nice sunrise! :)

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If you’re ever in the area and wants to climb a volcan I can highly reccomend the guide, Julio Rolando Menchu from “Ico’s volcano expeditions”. He’s a really friendly guy that knows his volcanoes and actually cares about the environment.

Pictures up at Flickr.

Posted in guatemala.


Monterrico

So, the last weekend we went to Monterrico.
After 9 weeks away from the sea it was nice to smell the sea again, and get away from the noise a little bit. (Well, the tourist places in Monterrico aren’t exactly quiet places, but still, a different kind of noise).
It was really, really nice and really, really hot!

Pictures will follow on Flickr, whenever I have the time and possibility to upload them.

Update: Pictures are on Flickr

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Posted in guatemala.


The flipside

After spending a month in Guatemala and getting quite comfortable, it was apparently time to see the different side of life here.



The Story:
Friday, 30.10.2009, we had planned to travel from Antigua to Comalapa right after school ends (17:00). There’s two Brendas (teacher-Brenda, and secretary-Brenda) from Comalapa working in our school, and they both were going to escort us all the way. They pretty much travel to-and-from Comalapa everyday, and thus knows a lot of the drivers. Teacher-Brenda had reserved the front row of the chicken bus for us From Antigua you can take a bus to Chimaltenango (for Q5) and from Chimaltenango to Comalapa (for Q7).



So there I am, sitting on the front-row, right behind the driver, in the middle of two beautiful Maya-princesses, trying to ignore the crazy-driving and practice a bit of Spanish. Ingrid and Franz is sitting on the other bench, next to a mother with a small child. It’s Friday evening and the bus is pretty much packed with people everywhere, in fact so much that the bus doesn’t even pick up more passengers, unless someone is leaving.

Somewhere before Chimaltenango, in a small pueblo, the bus stops to let some passengers of and some on. Suddenly I hear a “pop”, feel some glass-particles hit my face and see that the driver is falling/slipping/jumping/diving of his seat.

My instant reaction was to crouch down and try to make the three of us as small as possible. I then heard some more “pops” from outside the bus, but no more bullets entered the bus. I was sure this was a robbery and was ready to give away all my money, camera and even my sombrero.

However as we we’re crouching on our seats no one entered the bus. I got kind-of confused, since I was crouching behind the driver seat I didn’t really see anything. For a split-second I thought we might just have popped a tire, then I saw people streaming around the front of the bus, and I thought that perhaps we had hit someone. But that didn’t really make sense since there was a bullet-hole in the left side-window. Then I noticed the blood, there was a lot of blood in the bus, and a lot more in front of the bus. The poor lady with the child had been sprayed with a lot of it. We decided it was best to leave the bus (as everyone else apparently already had done), before we left I tried to hand the driver a sterile compress to stop the bleeding, I’m not sure if he got it though. There were already people trying to help him. (Time-wise I’m not sure, but all this cannot have taken place in more than 2-3minutes, at max, probably a lot less)




Outside of the bus there was some confusion as to what to do, we decided we wanted a taxi of some sort and ran over to the other side of the street. No taxis to be found, but we found a young couple with a small child and a big car, after explaining what was going on and where we needed to go, they accepted to drive us to Chimaltenango. Teacher-Brenda had already called her brother, and he was going to pick us up there.



In Chimaltenango we waited approximately 20-30 minutes for the brother to arrive, he had a pick-up and Franz and myself had the pleasure of riding in the back with the luggage (it was actually a nice way to travel, a little cold, but silent and good time to think). We arrived safely in Comalapa at about 20:00.



Afterthoughts:
There’s a couple of things that amazes me about this situation (well, for a naive norwegian there’s nothing that doesn’t make me go “wow” about this situation).What amazes me the most is how real this felt, I’ve always imagined that a situation like this must be really surrealistic, but this felt very, very real.



At no point was I actually afraid, I felt my pulse rise a little, and could definitively feel the effects of higher levels of adrenaline and endorphine (yes, science-stuff). As we were waiting in Chimaltenango I felt more awake and aware than I’ve been in a long time, I was calm, but my brain was spinning, evaluating the threat-level of every little detail: the cars, the buses, the police, the little five year old girl with a teddy-bear.



I’m very thankful for being accompanied by the Brendas, It would be a lot more difficult to get a grip of what was going on, and get a ride to Comalapa without them.



It’s also important to get through that this is not normal, and does rarely happen on the routes of Antigua-Chimaltenango and Chimaltenango-Comalapa. The bus from Antigua-Chimaltenango is supposed to be safe, there’s been trouble before, but no-one has actually died on this route before. In the capital it’s (from what I’ve been told) a totally different story.



Exactly why this happened I’m not sure, I’ve heard the theory that it is some sort of extortion-thing, but no-one knows yet. The driver got hit in the chest, very close to, but luckily above, the heart. The last I’ve heard is that he’s stable and should hopefully be ok, but it’s a risky procedure getting the bullet out. Apparently the target of the assassin was another busdriver that was a passenger of this particular bus, he had just left the bus and was shot dead with two bullets to the head. There might have been a third victim as well, but I don’t know. I was really impressed by how quick the ambulance arrived at the scene, the whole thing was far more efficient than what I expected from the stories I’ve been told. The guy that shot has been arrested, this guy didn’t shoot to harm or to frighten, he shot to kill, and that’s what bothers me the most, the one guy actually died..



As I said, at no point during the experience I actually felt afraid, there was no time, my brain was to busy working out the present dangers. I still haven’t felt afraid, but there’s still two scenes that keep replaying in my brain: the scene where the driver is falling of his seat, and the scene where I’m lying crouched over Brenda, pulling the other Brenda closer and wondering WTF is going on?



The thing is though, at no point was anyone actually trying to hurt me or my friends. We simply happened to be on the bus driven by someone with really bad enemies.



But still, thinking back, the bullet-hole in the window was at most 50-70cm in front of where I sat, and that is kind of close.



The rest of the weekend was really good, and pictures will (eventually) follow on Flickr. There is of course no pictures from Friday.



Update: The surgery went well, and the driver is apparently getting better :)

Posted in guatemala.


Fortsatt språkforvirret

I’m feeling kind of bad for not responding to emails and not updating this blog-thingy.. I have experienced so much, and at the moment I just don’t have the time (and when I have the time I don’t have internet-access).

Learning spanish is though. Really though. Like at 20:00 I just want to go to bed, but then I still try to do a couple of hours of homework.. My brain is mushy, squishy and kinda feels like I’ve been hit in the back of the head with a slice of lemon wrapped around a baseball-bat.
2009_10_16-11_44_15 The school we’re going to is Fundación Proyecto Lingüístico Francisco Marroquín, it’s definetively not the cheapest, but it seems to be one of the better ones + it’s a non-profit organisation that’s working on preserving Mayan language and culture. And for me that’s quite awesome :)
Also it’s a lot of fun!

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Anyway, I’m having a great time. It’s pretty much just studying, but I do have time to do other things as well: visit the market and wander the streets of Antigua. Antigua is a really pretty town, but there’s too many english speakers here.

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The first week in Antigua we stayed with a family that wasn’t really .. inclusive. We switched to another family, and they’re really excellent! Really good food, enough food, friendly people, and wednesday we even were invited to their daugthers birthday (a big fiesta at a restaurant, ~100 guests, piñata, clowns, food, cake +++).

More to follow later, I’ve got some awesome pictures to show:)

Posted in guatemala.